Accessories

Professional caliber fence
I've owned a Delta 10" 3 HP Tilting Arbor Unisaw with a Unifence since 1989.

Getting the fence parallel to the blade took some time initially, as I recall, but I've never had to realign it in 16 years of use. E.g., wood never binds because the fence isn't parallel to the blade. The fence is so accurate and perfectly flat on all sides; there is no need to mark the wood to be cut. A ruler is adhered to the guide-rail and that's what you use to determine where to lock the fence. Simply put the red line from the fence locking assembly on the exact place on the ruler, and cut. The wood is the right width, every time.

I have no complaints with the Unifence. It's amazing that it has stayed in perfect alignment on my Unisaw for 16 years. It never warps, bends, or twists. Unlike other fence systems, you can slide the fence forward or backward on the fence locking assembly, before tightening the fence in place. I find that useful, for example, when an anti-kickback device is attached to the fence and it gets in the way of the blade guard. It's also useful if you want extra fence length forward or backward, for control purposes. Simply unscrew two knobs and slide the fence into the desired position, then tighten the knobs. The fence shape is ideal for attaching kickback devices that clamp on because the aluminum is 1/8" thick and there is a large flat area the length of the fence that is ideal for this purpose.

A router is mounted under my Unisaw's extension table, so the fence has to be removed to route long pieces. A useful feature of the Unifence is that it quickly separates into the fence bar and handle mechanism. It's thus easier to find a storage place in my smallish shop, as the entire fence, if not separated, is awkwardly large.

The fence can be attached vertically (normal), or horizontally (flat) to the locking mechanism. In the flat position, the fence part that touches the wood is only 1/2" high, versus 3.5", when the fence is vertical. This is advantageous if the blade is tilted towards the fence and you need the fence close to the blade (i.e., when a high fence would impede the saw guard or blade), or, if part of the side of the work to be cut pokes out, assuming that part will ride above the 1/2" high fence (e.g., as in laminate work). I don't use this often, but it's a nifty feature of the Unifence. To move the fence to the left of the blade, loosen those two knobs, flip the fence end over end, and mount it on the right (instead of the left) of the fence locking assembly. Pull up on the locking mechanism's handle and the fence is easily removable from the saw to move it to the left, or, to get it out of the way (e.g., if using the "router table"). Like all top-of-the-line fences, the Unifence firmly locks into place with a single handle and the fence mechanism rides on a single guide rail.

There is a Delta 34-878 Cut-Off Fence for Unifence Saw Guide accessory that is unique in the professional fence market. Check that out.

You cannot do precision table saw work without a perfectly accurate fence. The Unifence fills that bill.