Yes, but...
I use my mini-rip saw all the time; it's absolutely essential to my art work. But I can't recommend it without a few comments.
First: that safety housing around it is so bulky that you cannot really see where the blade is going to go, exactly. This is fine if you're cutting something roughly, and you don't care within an 1/8 of an inch where the blade touches your work, but otherwise it's maddening. When I first bought it I tried it for a few cuts then put it aside to return. Instead what I did was attach it into one Dremel and use my other one, with a diamond cut-off wheel inserted, and lop the whole front of that silly cage off. If you do this, be mindful of where it is sealed to keep in the lubricating oil, and leave the back face of the safety on to help you keep the blade straight up and down. Once you do this little surgery, of course, you're out of warrantee, but then, WOW! this little guy is super handy! It's a detail saw with a dream-kerf of about a millimeter. Make SURE you wear goggles, now, dust and bits are going to fly.
Second: I don't know the solution to this second problem. I used my mini-saw so much, for so long, cutting through tempered hard-board that the blade got quite overheated and warped. When I finally realized I should have changed it a while ago, I found that the screw holding it in had fused to the blade and I couldn't get it off. The spindle-lock for the tool gave out before the screw moved, and I ended up bending the shaft of the saw trying. I would have returned it to Dremel, but since I had cut off the safety as I described, there was no chance. Ultimately I decided I had gotten far more than my money's worth out of the tool anyway, and bought a new one. I still use it every day. I guess I'm just going to have to be careful to change the blade sooner this time.
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Works OK - barely...
I bought this to trim some 1/4" plywood from underneath a cabinet (couldn't get a chisel in there) and it worked just OK. To cut about a 1 foot section took about 10 minutes with a ton of burning and smoking of the blade and grinding to a halt (absolutely no torque) when met with a bit of resistance. It might work ok for balsa wood, but for anything else it is too weak a blade (carbide tipped would be better). Also, the blade guard is annoying because you can't get flush up to your edge (leaves about 1/8" or so of wood still along the joint). It's also annoying how you have to change out the head unit of your dremel, making it time consuming to switch back to normal collet and bits.
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