Accessories

Nice Machine with lots of uses
This machine is great! I've used it on several door installs and some other trim and finish work.

This is a rough framing planer only, not a door planer!
This planer should be located in a framing contractors tool box where it belongs. It might be able to "fix" a stuck door, but for production door milling use the correct tool, such as a Porter-Cable 9118 Porta-Plane (formerly the model 126). This tool is best used to straight line wall studs before drywall (& insulation) or for general framing use. Do yourself a favor and throw away the fence, as it will only frustrate you. Use a jointer or a table saw to square edges correctly.

This is a fairly rugged tool that is able to go through a couple of hidden nails before replacing the disposable blades. It is a Makita, not a yellow repackaged Blackened/Decker!

need to order the bevel guide
I have owned this tool for about five years, I was not happy with the fence that comes with the tool, even with the fence as tight as it could be it still would move when planing.It wasn't until about a year ago that I found that makita makes a bevel guide, which is an ajustable fence that is screwed to the planer in front and the back, stopping the fence from twisting.
With the bevel guide it is a five star tool.

Great For Doors
If you need to trim door slabs (other than pre-hung)- this is the best tool. It produces very smooth cuts with little effort. It is also quiet. I'm not sure if a dust bag is available - the tool throws a lot of dust, so be ready. I have used it to trim up to 1/4 inch of 80 inch long doors (precor masonite doors). The tool is prefect - provides a very straight finished edge that can not be accomplished using any other power tool, even a table saw

it aint no 1100
My unit is the 1923, which apart from a different rabbet system and 850 watt motor, is esentially the same. They have plenty of power, easy blade set and change and all that, with the usual top Makita build quality. But, the handle design! Ugh. Short sole plate, single hole for fence and top heavy balance. The angle of the main handle and its high position, with the poor front knob placement make these things very difficult to use effectively. Why oh why do power planer manufacturers continue to make em to this pattern?

Compared to the u beaut old 1100, which is still available in 240V guise, they are not in the hunt. I bought my 1100 second hand, after I'd bought the 1923h. The other way round, and I'd only have one.

Anyone want to buy a good secondhand 1923?